My washing is coming out hot at the end of the wash.
- Normally a simple check will solve this. The usual cause for this
complaint is the inlet hoses have been connected up the wrong way round,
causing your machine to rinse in hot water instead of cold. Check that
the hot hose is connected to the
valve next to a H on the machine and the cold next
to a C if these are OK put the machine on a hot wash and grip the red
hose it should get hot if not the taps are incorrectly marked.
There is still water in my machine when it has finished
- It is not pumping out, which could be the filter (if it has one),
or the sump outlet under the machine is blocked. Another cause would
be the
pump not working through either mechanical or electrical
failure, or a foreign object jamming it
Where is the filter on my washing machine
- Not all manufacturers fit filters but the ones that do put them either
in the left or right hand corner near the bottom of the washing machine.
They could be behind a small flap or plinth, or concealed if you have
an integrated washing machine. Generally they unscrew anti-clockwise
then just pull out towards you. If the machine is still full of water,
try to tilt it backwards if at all possible. This may lesson the amount
of water you get on the floor when you remove the filter. Make sure
the machine is unplugged from the mains before attempting this. Hotpoint
machines have the filter inside the sump hose which is under the machine
and is connected to the pump, in this instance the sump must be removed
from the drum to gain access to the filter.
I don't have a users manual
- Most manufacturers have free user manuals on their website available
to download, a link to some of these sites is provided at the top of
this page. For Hotpoint, Creda or Ariston manuals click here
or for other makes check out the 'USER MANUALS' section, listed at the
top of this page. We also sell workshop/Repair manuals for Hotpoint
WMA &
WM washing machines. These manuals are easy to understand
and cover fault finding as well as dismantling and re-assembling of
the machines. Unlike the manufacturers manuals they also cover a list
of know problems that are easy to cure without specialist expertise.
My door seal has moldy black marks on it
- This occurs when the door is left closed after the washing has been
removed, in some cases this can be removed by putting the machine on
a service wash i.e. the hottest wash program on the machine with a good
quality wash powder, no clothes and just let it go through a normal
wash, if you are still unhappy then a new
door seal is the only other answer.
Can't open the door after wash has finished.
- Could be there is still water in the drum or the machine thinks there
is. So you could have a
pump out problem or a pressure
switch problem. If your machine took in more water than
normal it will probably be the pressure
chamber being blocked. Some machines use a pneumatic type
of
interlock which uses air direct from the pressure
chamber to keep the lock operated while there is still water in the
drum. Other types of locks use the connections from the pressure switch
to maintain power to the lock while the switch contacts remain closed.
In both these scenarios if the pressure chamber blocks after the machine
filled with water then the door lock will remain activated even when
the drum is empty. In both cases the door lock can be released by removing
the small bore air hose from the under side of the pressure switch.
(This is only a one off solution to allow the door to be opened) Remember
to unplug the mains power supply first.
If you have the second type of door lock then just by unplugging
the machine from the mains and waiting for a few minutes will release
the door lock, (because the pressure switch will reset without any
power getting to it). If the chamber has blocked it needs to be cleaned
out before the machine is used again. Unblock
chamber
My machine will not always spin properly
- Some machines are fitted with a system that detects if the load is
out of balance and to prevent damage it reduces the spin speed which
in some cases prevents the motor from spinning at all. If you only have
one item in the drum this can cause an Out Of Balance situation, try
putting a towel in with the item so there is an even load around the
inside of the drum, or in the case of sheets take them out, unravel
them and put them back. Associated question
My machine does not finish the wash, it stops with water in it.
- Check to see if you have a rinse hold button, it may have been activated
without you knowing. Rinse Hold stops the wash in the final rinse and
holds the washing suspended in water until you release the switch, this
prevents creasing due to the washing being left for a long time at the
end of a wash.
There is hardly any water in my new machine.
- The Modern washing machine is more energy efficient and requires less
water to do the same work; they normally have a few fill cycles which
gradually increase the water level as the clothing in the tub absorbs
it. By using less water they save on electricity as well by taking less
time to heat up
My new machine takes so long to do a wash
- Most new machines are cold fill only, this is to obtain the accredited
certification of being 'A' grade. What it means is, to do a normal wash
that took only 35 minutes in your old machine now takes about 60 minutes,
because the water now has to heat up from cold, however strange this
may seem it still works out cheaper on electricity because there is
far less water to heat and the drum agitation uses hardly any power
at all, therefore although it takes about twice as long it costs less
The drum is stuck and will not turn.
- There is an item of clothing wedged between the inner and outer drum,
possibly a handkerchief. The easiest way to get at it would be by removing
the heater, although this could also be the most costly,
if you can't refit it you will need a new one. So the safest way would
be through either the front or back plate, unless you are unlucky and
have a machine were the tub splits in the center.
I have to wait a long time for the door to open after a wash.
- It could be the pressure chamber
is blocked, if so you will probably notice more water in the machine
and the cloths coming out wetter than usual. Do not try blowing down
the pipe leading to it, this may give a short term solution but it will
need to be removed and cleaned out thoroughly.
The drum turns on my washing machine before any water has gone in.
- The machine thinks it already has the required amount of water in
it. The most common cause is the pressure
switch not resetting which could be the pressure
chamber being blocked or a faulty switch. The main problem
here is not the drum turning but the
heater coming on without any water to cool it down.
Unblock pressure chamber
Machine won't work on a hot wash but works on lower temperatures.
- The machine is probably waiting for the water to get to the correct
temperature before advancing on. Therefore you have either a
thermostat /
thermistor fault or the heater is not working. Either
case can be because there is a wire fault or the component is faulty.
The belt keeps coming off
- It could be just a case of alignment, where the belt is not on the
motor pulley far enough or it could be a worn or stretched
belt which may need either replacing or the motor
tension adjusted (if you have one that adjusts ) Check that the
main pulley has not cracked or split, you would hear
a rhythmic clicking as the drum rotates, at the other end of the scale
you are looking at
bearings or a bearing housing fault which could mean
a new
container.
Water comes out of the dispenser draw when it fills, also out of the
bottom of door.
- If you are getting water out of the dispenser when it fills then you
probably have too much water pressure and the taps need to be closed
slightly (in some cases the taps only have to be open a fraction to
allow enough water into the machine) in the majority of cases it is
the cold water that is the culprit as this is usually connected to the
main water supply. When the water runs down the front of the machine
a certain amount always finds it's way onto the top of the door and
runs down the inside of the door trim until it comes out at the bottom,
on first appearance it looks as though the door is leaking but it is
not. On the other hand you could have a faulty
door seal, check for any small nicks or cuts in the
edge of the seal, even a small piece of grit on the edge would cause
a leak.
Burning smell and drum stopped
- There are a number of reasons that could cause these symptoms. Check
if the drum has locked tight and will not move, has a bump appeared
on the inside of it, if yes then you have probably got an item of washing
caught between the drum and the container, the smell was the
belt being burnt through when the drum locked. If
the electricity went off, or the fuse in the plug blew, you have an
electrical fault (
Motor or wiring) remove the plug before investigating.
Noisy
- This statement covers a wide area and almost every part of the machine.
First try to identify where in the machine the noise is coming from
and at what stage of the cycle it happens. These two things will give
you a good idea as to what is causing the noise and how best to cure
it. For example if there is a grating sound coming from the rear of
the machine during the wash cycle, it is unlikely to be the
pump but
if the noise is only during the pump out section of the wash cycle then
it very well could be.
Some noises are not so straight forward and need a bit more investigation
to locate them such as tapping that happens intermittently, this is
usually a cable or wire tapping on the cabinet when the machine vibrates,
but it could just as easily be a
spring that needs greasing or a loose
component that needs tightening.
When investigating the cause of any noise in your machine it is
advisable to exercise extreme caution because to locate the sauce
it means the machine has to be working, and while an engineer may
choose to work on an uncovered machine, they are aware of the dangers
involved and know which parts bite back and which parts don't.
My WMA washing machine has stopped working and three lights have come
on.
- If the machine tries to spin instead of just tumbling when it initially
stars up, before the lights come on, then you have a tacho
problem which is more than likely just a broken wire on the motor circuit,
or it could be a wire off of the
motor plug. The best way to confirm this is to remove
the front panel of the machine and visually check the wiring loom leading
to the motor but if they all look fine then you will need a
test meter to check each wire from the
module to the motor.
Where is the pump on my washing machine?
- The
pump is always situated underneath the machine and is connected
to the outer drum by a hose. The actual location of the pump varies
from one manufacturer to another and in a lot of cases from one model
to another, but the usual locations are either at the rear of the machine
in the right or left hand corner, or at the front of the machine. If
the pump is located at the front of the machine there is usually a drain
flap fitted to the cabinet which would allow access to the filter for
cleaning. This access is not available on rear fitting pumps and the
machine needs to be tilted forward and the sump hose removed from the
machine to empty it of any blockage.
Where is the pressure switch?
- The pressure switch is normally located within easy reach at the top
of the machine when the lid has been removed. It could be attached to
the side of the cabinet or connected to the
timer or even at the rear
of the cabinet. It is connected to the pressure chamber by a small bore
air hose and has a number of wires coming off of it. The usual shape
for the switch is round but they can vary from model to model.
Where is the pressure chamber?
- The pressure chamber is situated at a very low point on the container;
some are at the rear whilst others are on the front of the drum. There
size and shape varies from model to model as does there location. The
things they have in common are they all connect to the pressure switch
via a small bore air hose, and a large portion of fill related faults
are down to the chamber being blocked from soap residue.
How do I change the belt on my WMA/WMM washing machine.?
- The
belts on the WMA and WMM range of Hotpoint Washing machines are
loosely classed as stretchy belts (although you would never think it
to look at them). This means that there is no adjustment on the
motor.
To fit a new belt (or even to replace one you have just removed) is
simple if gone about in the right fashion. Whilst standing at the front
of the machine, with the top and back inspection panel removed, lean
over the machine and hook the belt over the motor pulley then feed it
onto the right side of the main pulley as far as it will go. Hold it
in place with a few cable ties rapped around it and the pulley. Put
your left hand inside the drum and rotate it slowly anti clockwise.
This will draw the belt onto the main pulley and the cable ties will
snap as the drum rotates. Diagram
How do I adjust the pressure switch?
- The short answer is you can't, or at least it is unwise to try. The
pressure switches are pre set in the factory and although it is possible
in theory to alter the fill level by adjusting the screws on the rear
of the switch, it will in most cases cause extra problems and normally
incur the cost of buying a new switch. If you find the water level in
your machine is either too much or too little it is usually the
pressure chamber
or associated pipe work that is at fault. Switches do go wrong
but they just stop working or become intermittent and no amount of tinkering
with the fill levels will correct them. So if you think your switch
is at fault then change it.
What is the Date Code and why would | need it?
-
For
Date Code/Serial Number locations on Hotpoint/Creda appliances click. Here
The
first 2 digits of the serial number are the Date code, so by using the
chart below you can tell exactly when your machine came off the
production line. (As opposed to when the store sold it.) They may of
had it in stock for 9 months. Therefore the
example serial number of 23290056 shows the machine came of the production line in November
2003.As you can see every eighth year the numbers recycle which means
your appliance could have been made in either of the years listed,
however there were only a few models made that cover the eight year
time span so you are reasonably safe to assume the date code on your
appliance will fall within the boundaries listed.
The main reason for needing either the date code or serial number
of a machine is when it comes to buying spares. Obviously you will
need the model number so the dealer will now what parts you need but
on some appliances the parts differ from one year to another, therefore
just by knowing what model you have will not necessarily get you the
correct part for your machine (such as a door lock) for instance. They
may have used 3 different types of door locks over the life of that
particular model and although generally speaking there would be some
type of conversion kit or instructions in the box this was not always
the case. So it is handy to know just when your machine came off the
production line
|
|
JAN
|
FEB
|
MAR
|
APR
|
MAY
|
JUN
|
JUL
|
AUG
|
SEP
|
OCT
|
NOV
|
DEC
|
|
2000
|
73
|
74
|
75
|
76
|
77
|
78
|
79
|
80
|
81
|
82
|
83
|
84
|
|
2001
|
85
|
86
|
87
|
88
|
89
|
90
|
91
|
92
|
93
|
94
|
95
|
96
|
|
2002
|
01
|
02
|
03
|
04
|
05
|
06
|
07
|
08
|
09
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
|
2003
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
|
2004
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
32
|
33
|
34
|
35
|
36
|
|
2005
|
37
|
38
|
39
|
40
|
41
|
42
|
43
|
44
|
45
|
46
|
47
|
48
|
|
2006
|
49
|
50
|
51
|
52
|
53
|
54
|
55
|
56
|
57
|
58
|
59
|
60
|
|
2007
|
61
|
62
|
63
|
64
|
65
|
66
|
67
|
68
|
69
|
70
|
71
|
72
|
|
2008
|
73
|
74
|
75
|
76
|
77
|
78
|
79
|
80
|
81
|
82
|
83
|
84
|
How do I change the heater on my washing machine
- The
heater is located either at the front of the container just under
the door opening or it is at the rear of the container beneath the
pulley.
As the machine will need to be pulled out to gain access to the heater
which ever location it is in, the easiest option to locate it is look
to the rear of the machine first, because there is normally only a small
panel at the base of the cabinet to remove for you to view the back of the container. The heater looks
like a small oblong panel about 3 inches long with 3 wires attached;
there may also be a small square plug in it with 2 wires. (This would
be the thermistor) Not all heaters have an integral thermistor. Once
you have located where it is you can set about removing it. If it is
in the front of the machine you will need to remove the front panel
and all the bits holding it on such as soap drawer, fascia panel, door
seal and possibly kick strip. Don't forget to remove the
interlock or
you could inadvertently pull the wires and damage it as you take the
panel off. Some heaters have a water protector over them (A large plastic
cap) which may be held in place by a central plastic nut. Once this
is removed and you have access to the heater, disconnect all the wires.
In the centre of the heater there is a nut you need to loosen, about
three quarters of the way up the thread. Tap the nut back into the heater
so it sits flush on the heater body again. Now prize the heater out
(You may need to use a flat bladed screw driver between it and the front
plate / back plate or just by wiggling the heater from side to side
usually works). If you are replacing the heater with a new one then
it should just slot in place, but if you are refitting the old heater
you will need to lubricate the edge of the rubber seal or you will never
get it to refit properly (washing up liquid is good for this purpose).
How do I adjust the out of balance regulator on my washing machine?
- On the earlier Hotpoint washing machines a switch was fitted to one
of the
suspension legs, which in turn was connected to a long spring.
When an uneven load in the machine produced an out of balance situation
during spin it would cause the spring to activate the switch and turn
the machine off. This type of out of balance control was not very effective
and was soon deleted from the machines.
The type of out of balance control used nowadays is handled by the
tacho generator on the rear of the
motor which relays information to the
module. As the motor rotates
it draws currant, and this currant usage is monitored by the module.
If a load is out of balance the motor will require more energy to
turn and lift the drum to the top of the cycle than it will to lower
it. In this way the machine can detect if the load is evenly distributed
or not. This distribution technique only comes into action when the
machine is set to do more than a certain amount of RPM's (such as
during a spin cycle rather than a wash cycle). The module controls
this function also.
Therefore the only action you need to worry about regarding out of
balance, is to ensure your wash load is of a reasonable content and
similar type of material. Remember that a washing machine will go
out of balance if it is UNDER loaded rather than overloaded. Overloading
will affect the wash and knock the
bearings out.
How do I unblock the pressure chamber on my washing machine?
- Work safely; remove the mains plug from the wall socket before commencing.
First of all locate the pressure chamber,
you may need to remove the front of the cabinet to gain access to it
or it could be under the machine at the rear. If you need to remove
the front panel the following information may assist you (Not all machines
are the same)
Open the door and unhook the
door seal from around the front panel.
In most cases the removal of the front panel requires that the soap
draw be taken out to gain access to the screws behind it, these screws
hold the control panel on, with this removed you can undo the screws
at the bottom of the front panel before removing the ones on
top. The panel can now be removed from the cabinet, (some panels are
held in place by hooks on the side of the cabinet and will need lifting
to free them). Either remove the
door lock or take the wires off (make
a note which terminals they came off for when you have to replace
them).
Tilt the machine away from where the chamber is, e.g. (If it is on
the front then tilt the machine backwards) and prop it up by putting
a tin of peas or something under it so it stays tilted. Now any water
left in the drum will not come out all over you when the chamber is
removed. (If there is an excess of water in the drum remove it by
hand using a mug or sponge). Place a dish or bowl under the chamber
to catch any water that does come out.
Depending on which chamber you have the fixings vary, some are held
in place by screws while others use hose clips to hold them on. They
also differ in there appearance in that some are a single entity on
their own while others are part of a sump or hose setup where the
entire unit must be removed to clean out the chamber.
Remove the fixings including the small bore air hose and take the
chamber assembly off of the machine, if there are any O rings or seals
clean them and place them on one side.
It may be necessary to use a screw driver to dig out the contents
of the chamber before flushing it out with running water. When it
is clean replace it, remember to refit any O rings or seal that came
off when it was removed.
Note:
Do not be tempted to just blow down the air hose to relieve the blockage,
because although this may seem to work initially it has not cleared
the fault and will only last for a few washes before blocking up again.
How do I get rid of excess foam in dishwasher
- It could be that you have spilt rinse aid into the tub or you have
used the wrong detergent. The best way to clear the foam is to wash
your hands in it with a bar of soap (it sounds weird but it works) The
soap kills the bubbles. Then put it on rinse to empty it out.
The white bits in dishwasher have turned pink
- This is most likely caused by additives in food or relishes such as
Tomato sauce, it is unlikely that you will be able to remove them once
they have set, but you could try 'citric acid' obtainable from a chemist.
Use it in place of a detergent and let the machine do a hot wash with
nothing in it
The gauze filter in my dishwasher has a hole in it, can I still use
it?
- It is not advisable to use a dishwasher without a
filter, because
it is there to prevent particles of food ect from getting lodged in
the
circulation motor or
discharge pumps, without these filters it would only
take a short time before the appliance would come to a halt.
The soap dispenser is not working!
- It could just be that it is being held closed by something in the
dishwasher, i.e. poorly stacked dishes or pans, or even a dishwasher
freshener wrongly placed could prevent it from opening, The other alternative
is a defective dispenser.
My tumble drier is cold
- Some tumble driers have a reset button on the back (you would need
to check your hand book) these are for if the heater gets too hot i.e.
the filters are not cleaned out.
Failing this it could be the
thermostats or the heater
itself. The heaters on the newer machines are normally at the rear of
the appliance under a casing of some description and the thermostats
are located on or close to the heater mounting. Some of them have coloured
dots on, these are not for decoration but to identify the different
temperature settings for machines within the particular model range,
in most cases they will come as a pair of thermostats together; (one
is a one shot cut out and the other is the thermostat) If either one
needs replacing then replace the pair.
During production of any particular model, components are sometimes
changed so it would be useful when ordering new parts/thermostats to
have on hand not only the model number but also the year of manufacture
or date code, just in case.
There are also thermostats or thermistors in or around the vent
outlet on a large portion of tumble driers, so if the washing is drying
but taking too long it could be one of these that needs replacing,
or alternately it may be the washing machine not spinning properly
or a faulty pump leaving the washing much wetter than usual.
Do I need to check the water container every time I use my Condenser
Drier
- It is advisable to empty the container every time you use your Condenser
Drier, because when they become full they are heavy and more difficult
to remove without spillage, although normally a light will come on to
tell you it needs emptying.
How often do I need to clean my Tumble Drier filter?
- Every time you use the drier you should clean the
filter or you could
end up with fluff all over your clothing, it also allows the
thermostats
to work at there optimum efficiency and save you money on your electric
bill.
My tumble dryer still goes round after the timer has stopped
- Most tumble dryers have a built in crease guard feature which revolves
the tub from time to time when the drying cycle has finished, unless
the machine is turned off or the door opened. The idea behind this action
is that if you put the dryer on in the morning and go out, instead of
the clothes being left creased up all day, by revolving the drum every
so often they will remain fresh and crease free for when you take them
out.
Where are the thermistors on the CTD80/85/40 VTD60/65A
- There are two thermistors, the rear one controls the temperature into
the back of the dryer and is located in-between the two thermostats
on the heater assembly just above the heater, and the other thermistor
is located at the top of the front air duct moulding. Both thermistors
are used for temperature control by the machines electronics.
Be sure to replace the new thermistor with the same type as the
existing one because there were more than one type used and they are
not interchangeable.
What is the difference between a one shot thermostat and a cycling thermostat
?
- The one shot
thermostat is a safety devise and works just like a fuse
in that when it blows it cannot be reset. If the cycling thermostat
fails and the heater gets too hot then the one shot thermostat operates
which cuts power to the heater.
The cycling thermostat switches power to the heater off when it reaches
a preset temperature and back on when the temperature falls.
These cycling thermostats were not fitted to some Hotpoint machines between
2005-2006.
If you have both stats fitted to your machine and one needs replacing
then replace both because they usually come as a pair.
How do I remove the motor on a TDC30P/N/S/YS Condenser Tumble Dryer
?
- To the best of our knowledge the following
information is correct and sufficient for the purpose intended. However
we accept no responsibility for any omissions, losses, damage, or injury
however caused either directly or indirectly by using the information
gained from these instructions.
The
motor on the Hotpoint TDC30 is held in place by two screws securing
the mounting to the under side of the cabinet. However it is also
linked to other components via the
impellor and shaft.
First remove the top cover and right hand side panel then tilt the
machine backwards (or lay it on its back). Undo the two motor bracket
retaining screws and stand machine upright again. Rotate the drum
so that an indented section is directly over the top air duct moulding
and unclip both sections, swing the upper section of the moulding
out of the way out side the cabinet. You can now remove the
belt from
the
jockey pulleys. Take off the heater cover and remove the hose
clip and impeller from the motor shaft. Undo the two screws inside
the rear ducting and remove all wiring connections. By rotating the
motor and bracket anti-clockwise it can now be lifted from the base
of the cabinet. Now ease the assembly forward so the impellor shaft
clears the rear ducting. The belt can now be removed from the shaft,
then when the motor is out the hose clip and front rotor can be removed.
Undo the two screws holding the motor to the frame and separate.
How do I change the belt on my Tumble Drier?
- Each model tumble drier has its own particular way of fitting the
belt. Unlike washing machines the belt on a tumble drier fits around
the drum and the motor shaft as opposed to a pulley, therefore to fit
the belt you have to remove one end of the drum from the cabinet. On
some machines it is easier to take the front panel off and loop the
belt over the drum through the front of the cabinet, while other models
it is easier to undo the
rear bearing assembly and by levering the back
panel out a fraction it is possible to pass the belt between it and
the bearing shaft allowing you to loop it onto the drum that way. Which
ever method is used the drum should be refitted properly before any
attempt is made to fit the belt over the motor shaft.
Gaining access to the
motor is yet another varying option because
on the older models you have to go in through the rear of the cabinet
while the newer models prefer the side entrance which involves removing
a side panel.
Fitting the belt over the motor shaft is the complicated part of
the job and really differs from one model to another so there is no
easy method or instruction that can be given.
You will probably see a ring around drum where the old belt fitted.
Place the new belt on the same track as the old one and put a few
pieces of electrical tape over the belt and onto the drum, (so it
will hold the belt in place while you are concentrating on connecting
it over the motor shaft). Where there are
jockey pulleys fitted, it
is in some cases possible to just hook the belt onto the shaft and
fit the pulleys after, because they are there to put tension on the
belt.
If you have a drier that uses a stretchy belt then you will need something
to use as a lever to force the new belt onto the motor shaft. Hotpoint
have produced a lever for there engineers because the belts on some
of there newer models were causing problems to fit. This lever consists
of a long bar with two pins attached to a metal plate about 12 inches
from the tip. The bar hooks into the base of the cabinet and the belt
loops over the pins. By levering down on the bar it is easy to fit
the belt over the motor shaft but without this tool it could be quite
a job.View Tool
Some of the newer condenser driers use the motor itself to assist
with the belt fitting; in this case the motor is unbolted and rotated
in its mounting allowing the shaft to get closer to the drum.(If you
have one of these mark the motor casing and housing before removing
any bolts so you know where the motor should be when you refit it).
When the belt is fitted the motor is rotated back and re-bolted in
place. However there are many more parts that need removing on a condenser
drier just to gain access to the motor shaft, because the fan impellor
is usually attached to it and that is in a covered housing which needs
removing first.
When the belt is finally fitted make sure the tape holding it in
place on the drum is removed and that it is still in the right place.
Slowly revolve the drum by hand to insure the positioning of the belt
remains the same, because if it is out of alignment it will come off
the motor shaft and you will have to start all over again.
No water going into water tank, clothes not drying due to no heat
- The water fill relies on a small pump at the lower rear of the machine
pumping the water thru a small tube to the tank, if the pump stops or
gets blocked [due to the user not cleaning the front door filter on
a regular basis] the water builds up in the base and trips the float
switch to go open circuit causing no heat, cure is to either free or
replace pump
How to change over my Fridge door
- Before you start first remove all the contents of the fridge door,
Bottles, lard, eggs ect and remove any liquid items in the fridge that
may spill, because you will need to tilt the unit backward slightly
so you can get at the lower hinge bracket under the base. Tilt refrigeration
unit backward and if possible rest it against a wall, if this is not
possible place something under it so it does not fall on you, but be
careful not to tilt it too far or it will fall the other way. Remove
the fixing screws / bolts from the underside of the lower hinge bracket;
you may have to unscrew the foot first to allow the bracket to be removed.
If this is the case then remove both feet because you will need the
other foot off to fit the hinge bracket on the opposite side. Be aware
that there may be nylon washers on the shaft of the bracket, don't lose
these they are packing washers used for adjusting the door alignment
and will need to be replaced. Remove the door and unscrew the bolts
holding the top hinge bracket in place. In most cases you can just refit
the hinge brackets to the opposite side of the fridge, starting with
the top hinge first. On the door there are two pivot bushes that just
press into the frame; one top and one bottom. Hook these out with a
knife or fine screwdriver and remove the little plug that should be
it the opposite corners. Replace the plugs with the bushes and visa
versa. Slot the door onto the upper hinge pivot pin and fit the other
hinge into the door; having first fitted any nylon washers that were
present when it was removed. Locate the lower hinge and tighten. Replace
feet and that is it done.
There is water under my Freezer
- If you have checked all the normal sources of water around that area
and come up empty then it could be expensive. Check and see if there
is any ice under the freezer, if there is then buy a new one, because
the insulation has gone and it is not repairable.
Water in base of fridge.
- The main cause for this is the hole inside at the rear of the fridge
is blocked. This hole is at the bottom of the gully and lets the water
from the evaporator run through to the dissipater
at the back when the unit goes into defrost. To clean it out use a piece
of wire (an old coat hanger will do fine), if the hole goes to the rear
of the appliance then it will only go in about 5 to 8 mm. What is causing
the blockage is slime, so when you hit a hard surface it is the down
pipe. Drag the wire out, you may need to do this several times, empty
a small amount of water into the gully and see if it clears.
Do not put too much water in the gully to test
it because the dissipater tray can only hold so much before it overflows.
My compressor is very hot is this right?
- During its normal operation the compressor gets quite hot when it
is running, but if it gets too hot to touch it could be a system fault
which is a job for a professional. In fact any job involving the compressor
is best left to the professional as they have the correct equipment
to break into and re-gas the system.
Fridge light on but not cold (Free standing Fridge)
- If the light is on but the compressor is silent it would indicate
that the
thermostat was faulty and needed replacing. They are usually
found within the fridge compartment and not too expensive to buy.
How to change over my Fridge Freezer doors
- Before you start first remove all the contents of the fridge door,
Bottles, lard, eggs ect and remove any liquid items in the fridge that
may spill, because you will need to tilt the unit backward slightly
so you can get at the lower hinge bracket under the base. Tilt Fridge
Freezer unit backward and if possible rest it against a wall, if this
is not possible place something under it so it does not fall on you,
but be careful not to tilt it too far or it will fall the other way.
Remove the fixing screws / bolts from the underside of the lower hinge
bracket; you may have to unscrew the foot first to allow the bracket
to be removed. If this is the case then remove both feet because you
will need the other foot off to fit the hinge bracket on the opposite
side. Be aware that there may be nylon washers on the shaft of the bracket,
don't lose these they are packing washers used for adjusting the door
alignment and will need to be replaced. The magnetic door seal should
have held the freezer door in place whilst you removed the bracket.
Now pull the door free and lower it from the shaft in the centre bracket.
Remove the screws / bolts holding centre bracket in place and remove,
along with the fridge door. Once again be mindful of the little nylon
washers. Undo the upper hinge bracket and refit on opposite side of
cabinet. Remove the blanking plugs and bushes at either end of the doors
and swap them over. Fit the top hinge first then upper door and centre
hinge, remembering to replace any washers that had been fitted previously.
Now fit lower door and bottom hinge (including washers). Refit feet
if they were removed and job done.
Relocating Fridge/Freezer
- If you are relocating a fridge a freezer or a combination fridge freezer
to another premises, it is always best if it can be kept upright during
the move where possible, but if it is necessary to lay it down then
do so on its side rather than on its back or front. When the unit has
been relocated in its new position it is best to leave it for about
2 hours before switching it on. This will allow the refrigerant inside
to settle. If you have switched the unit on and the compressor either
cuts out straight away or does not start it could be the system has
not equalized so by switching it off for a short time then back on again
you could find it will work.
Compressor silent freezer not cold
(Free standing Freezer not Frost Free)
- If the freezer is not cold and the compressor is not running there
is a good chance it is the
thermostat that is faulty, this is located
inside the freezer at the rear.
Adjusting Fridge/Freezer door
- Adjusting the doors on a fridge or freezer is normally just a matter
of inserting a few nylon washers on the hinge pin; unfortunately the
hinge needs to be removed to allow you to do this. Door
removal
What is the difference between a thermal link and a thermal cut out?
- The thermal link is effectively a
piece of (white metal) solder ect, between two copper pins, which bridge
the gap between the input stat and the power supply. When the unit reaches
an over heat situation, (such as if the thermostat stays on or the vent
outlet is blocked), the white metal of the link melts and breaks the
connection, effectively turning off the heater. These thermal links
are of varying melting points dependent on the unit they are in, this
is highlighted by the different colours on the edges; some melt at low
temperatures while others need more heat to disintegrate. Under no circumstances
should copper wire or fuse wire be used to replace these links. The
thermal cut out is a thermostat that can be re-set after it has been
activated. Like the link it operates at temperatures above the permitted
parameters of the heater, but unlike the link it can be re-set rather
than replaced
My heater is cold:
- This could be caused by any of the following reasons: The safety cut-out
has operated, (or if you have one the thermal
link has melted), the input thermostat is faulty, the heater
is switched off at the spur unit, there is a bad wiring connection or
you have a supply failure such as a blown fuse. On singe element
heaters it is also possible that the element has blown but if you have
a larger heater it is highly unlikely that more than one element would
blow at one time. Before you test or check
anything on the heater make sure it is switched off from the main supply,
having first made sure that it was originally turned on and the fault
wasn't just that it had been turned off: (Read
that last section again, but slowly, and it will make sense!).
Check the fuse first as it is the easiest, and then check for loose
or broken wires, (you would need to remove the top and front of the
unit to access any internal wiring connections) if they all seem OK
locate the cut-out reset lever which should be on the right hand side
connected to the thermostat (under a cover) and press it down; at this
point you should hear a click, if not the final option is the thermostat.
Poor Heat output
- The main reasons for this would be: Incorrect setting of the input/output
control, a faulty heating element, the damper valve is not operating
correctly or the input thermostat is faulty. The input control knob
may be broken and although you have the unit set at the temperature
you want it may really be set much lower (the knob may have revolved
around the control shaft rather than turning it) or the damper control
may have stuck restricting the hot air flow, it could also be the input
stat is faulty or finally it could be the heater element is not working.
Because most heaters have more than one element it is not always easy
to tell if they are the cause of the heat reduction, but if you touch
the outside of the cabinet when the unit is fully charged you should
be able to feel if one side is much cooler than the other. Failing this
you would need to do a continuity test
with a meter.
Why did the safety cut-out operate?
- You may have had clothing draped over heater or restricted the air
flow around it, or it could just be that the input thermostat is faulty.
No heat from the storage heaters fan booster
- Some storage heaters have a booster fan and this fan heater element
has a safety cut-out fitted, which will operate to turn off the heater
element when the temperature rises above the operating level of the
thermostat e.g. if the air flow is restricted (the lower grill is covered).
If the cut-out operates the supply to the element is stopped, but the
fan will continue to operate.
How do I reset the cut-out on my storage heater?
- Some Creda storage heaters have a thermostat with an integral safety
cut-out. To gain access to the stat you must first remove the top cover
of the heater. They are usually located at the right hand end of the
inner top panel. To reset the cut-out you must lift the front of the
thermostat cover, then press the reset lever and you will hear a click
as the cut-out resets.
My storage heater gets cold too quick
- It could be the output stat is set too high and letting too much of
the heat escape at one time, try turning the output setting down. Or
it could be the input stat is faulty and cutting out before the blocks
are fully charged.
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