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The Q & A on this page are generalized and not comprehensive in any sense of the word, If you do not find the fault you are looking for on this page, try the Common Faults section.
The Hyper links provided within the text of these articles are there to give further information regarding the location of the spare part and to give further relevant information regarding the function of the part.

        Where can I find general information about my Hotpoint Appliances?
  • This link will take you to a page on the Hotpoint web site that may help with some of the most basic questions on a range of different appliances.

    Where can I find the serial number on my appliance?
  • This link will show you the most common locations for serial numbers on most appliances.



  • My washing is coming out hot at the end of the wash.
  • Normally a simple check will solve this. The usual cause for this complaint is the inlet hoses have been connected up the wrong way round, causing your machine to rinse in hot water instead of cold. Check that the hot hose is connected to the valve next to a H on the machine and the cold next to a C if these are OK put the machine on a hot wash and grip the red hose it should get hot if not the taps are incorrectly marked.



    There is still water in my machine when it has finished


  • It is not pumping out, which could be the filter (if it has one), or the sump outlet under the machine is blocked. Another cause would be the pump not working through either mechanical or electrical failure, or a foreign object jamming it


    Where is the filter on my washing machine


  • Not all manufacturers fit filters but the ones that do put them either in the left or right hand corner near the bottom of the washing machine. They could be behind a small flap or plinth, or concealed if you have an integrated washing machine. Generally they unscrew anti-clockwise then just pull out towards you. If the machine is still full of water, try to tilt it backwards if at all possible. This may lesson the amount of water you get on the floor when you remove the filter. Make sure the machine is unplugged from the mains before attempting this. Hotpoint machines have the filter inside the sump hose which is under the machine and is connected to the pump, in this instance the sump must be removed from the drum to gain access to the filter.


    I don't have a users manual


  • Most manufacturers have free user manuals on their website available to download, a link to some of these sites is provided at the top of this page. For Hotpoint, Creda or Ariston manuals click here or for other makes check out the 'USER MANUALS' section, listed at the top of this page. We also sell workshop/Repair manuals for Hotpoint WMA & WM as well as WF washing machines. These manuals are easy to understand and cover fault finding as well as dismantling and re-assembling of the machines. Unlike the manufacturers manuals they also cover a list of know problems that are easy to cure without specialist expertise.


    My door seal has moldy black marks on it


  • This occurs when the door is left closed after the washing has been removed, in some cases this can be removed by putting the machine on a service wash i.e. the hottest wash program on the machine with a good quality wash powder, no clothes and just let it go through a normal wash, if you are still unhappy then a new door seal is the only other answer.


    Can't open the door after wash has finished.


  • Could be there is still water in the drum or the machine thinks there is. So you could have a pump out problem or a pressure switch problem. If your machine took in more water than normal it will probably be the pressure chamber being blocked. Some machines use a pneumatic type of interlock which uses air direct from the pressure chamber to keep the lock operated while there is still water in the drum. Other types of locks use the connections from the pressure switch to maintain power to the lock while the switch contacts remain closed. In both these scenarios if the pressure chamber blocks after the machine filled with water then the door lock will remain activated even when the drum is empty. In both cases the door lock can be released by removing the small bore air hose from the under side of the pressure switch. (This is only a one off solution to allow the door to be opened) Remember to unplug the mains power supply first.

    If you have the second type of door lock then just by unplugging the machine from the mains and waiting for a few minutes will release the door lock, (because the pressure switch will reset without any power getting to it). If the chamber has blocked it needs to be cleaned out before the machine is used again.See pressure chamber above on how to Unblock chamber




    My machine will not always spin properly


  • Some machines are fitted with a system that detects if the load is out of balance and to prevent damage it reduces the spin speed which in some cases prevents the motor from spinning at all. If you only have one item in the drum this can cause an Out Of Balance situation, try putting a towel in with the item so there is an even load around the inside of the drum, or in the case of sheets take them out, unravel them and put them back. Associated question


    My machine does not finish the wash, it stops with water in it.


  • Check to see if you have a rinse hold button, it may have been activated without you knowing. Rinse Hold stops the wash in the final rinse and holds the washing suspended in water until you release the switch, this prevents creasing due to the washing being left for a long time at the end of a wash.


    There is hardly any water in my new machine.


  • The Modern washing machine is more energy efficient and requires less water to do the same work; they normally have a few fill cycles which gradually increase the water level as the clothing in the tub absorbs it. By using less water they save on electricity as well by taking less time to heat up


    My new machine takes so long to do a wash


  • Most new machines are cold fill only, this is to obtain the accredited certification of being 'A' grade. What it means is, to do a normal wash that took only 35 minutes in your old machine now takes about 60 minutes, because the water now has to heat up from cold, however strange this may seem it still works out cheaper on electricity because there is far less water to heat and the drum agitation uses hardly any power at all, therefore although it takes about twice as long it costs less


    The drum is stuck and will not turn.


  • There is an item of clothing wedged between the inner and outer drum, possibly a handkerchief. The easiest way to get at it would be by removing the heater, although this could also be the most costly, if you can't refit it you will need a new one. So the safest way would be through either the front or back plate, unless you are unlucky and have a machine were the tub splits in the center.


    I have to wait a long time for the door to open after a wash.


  • It could be the pressure chamber is blocked, if so you will probably notice more water in the machine and the cloths coming out wetter than usual. Do not try blowing down the pipe leading to it, this may give a short term solution but it will need to be removed and cleaned out thoroughly.


    The drum turns on my washing machine before any water has gone in.


  • The machine thinks it already has the required amount of water in it. The most common cause is the pressure switch not resetting which could be the pressure chamber being blocked or a faulty switch. The main problem here is not the drum turning but the heater coming on without any water to cool it down. See video link for pressure chamber to see how to unblock it


    Machine won't work on a hot wash but works on lower temperatures.


  • The machine is probably waiting for the water to get to the correct temperature before advancing on. Therefore you have either a thermostat / thermistor fault or the heater is not working. Either case can be because there is a wire fault or the component is faulty.


    The belt keeps coming off


  • It could be just a case of alignment, where the belt is not on the motor pulley far enough or it could be a worn or stretched belt which may need either replacing or the motor tension adjusted (if you have one that adjusts ) Check that the main pulley has not cracked or split, you would hear a rhythmic clicking as the drum rotates, at the other end of the scale you are looking at bearings or a bearing housing fault which could mean a new container.


    Water comes out of the dispenser draw when it fills, also out of the bottom of door.


  • If you are getting water out of the dispenser when it fills then you probably have too much water pressure and the taps need to be closed slightly (in some cases the taps only have to be open a fraction to allow enough water into the machine) in the majority of cases it is the cold water that is the culprit as this is usually connected to the main water supply. When the water runs down the front of the machine a certain amount always finds it's way onto the top of the door and runs down the inside of the door trim until it comes out at the bottom, on first appearance it looks as though the door is leaking but it is not. On the other hand you could have a faulty door seal, check for any small nicks or cuts in the edge of the seal, even a small piece of grit on the edge would cause a leak.


    Burning smell and drum stopped


  • There are a number of reasons that could cause these symptoms. Check if the drum has locked tight and will not move, has a bump appeared on the inside of it, if yes then you have probably got an item of washing caught between the drum and the container, the smell was the belt being burnt through when the drum locked. If the electricity went off, or the fuse in the plug blew, you have an electrical fault ( Motor or wiring) remove the plug before investigating.


    Noisy


  • This statement covers a wide area and almost every part of the machine. First try to identify where in the machine the noise is coming from and at what stage of the cycle it happens. These two things will give you a good idea as to what is causing the noise and how best to cure it. For example if there is a grating sound coming from the rear of the machine during the wash cycle, it is unlikely to be the pump but if the noise is only during the pump out section of the wash cycle then it very well could be.
    Some noises are not so straight forward and need a bit more investigation to locate them such as tapping that happens intermittently, this is usually a cable or wire tapping on the cabinet when the machine vibrates, but it could just as easily be a spring that needs greasing or a loose component that needs tightening.

    When investigating the cause of any noise in your machine it is advisable to exercise extreme caution because to locate the sauce it means the machine has to be working, and while an engineer may choose to work on an uncovered machine, they are aware of the dangers involved and know which parts bite back and which parts don't.




    My WMA washing machine has stopped working and three lights have come on.


  • If the machine tries to spin instead of just tumbling when it initially stars up, before the lights come on, then you have a tacho problem which is more than likely just a broken wire on the motor circuit, or it could be a wire off of the motor plug. The best way to confirm this is to remove the front panel of the machine and visually check the wiring loom leading to the motor but if they all look fine then you will need a test meter to check each wire from the module to the motor.


    Where is the pump on my washing machine?


  • The pump is always situated underneath the machine and is connected to the outer drum by a hose. The actual location of the pump varies from one manufacturer to another and in a lot of cases from one model to another, but the usual locations are either at the rear of the machine in the right or left hand corner, or at the front of the machine. If the pump is located at the front of the machine there is usually a drain flap fitted to the cabinet which would allow access to the filter for cleaning. This access is not available on rear fitting pumps and the machine needs to be tilted forward and the sump hose removed from the machine to empty it of any blockage.


    Where is the pressure switch?


  • The pressure switch is normally located within easy reach at the top of the machine when the lid has been removed. It could be attached to the side of the cabinet or connected to the timer or even at the rear of the cabinet. It is connected to the pressure chamber by a small bore air hose and has a number of wires coming off of it. The usual shape for the switch is round but they can vary from model to model.


    Where is the pressure chamber?


  • The pressure chamber (see link above)is situated at a very low point on the container; some are at the rear whilst others are on the front of the drum. There size and shape varies from model to model as does there location. The things they have in common are they all connect to the pressure switch (see link above) via a small bore air hose, and a large portion of fill related faults are down to the chamber being blocked from soap residue.


    How do I change the belt on my WMA/WMM washing machine.?


  • The belts on the WMA, WF and WMM range of Hotpoint Washing machines are loosely classed as stretchy belts (although you would never think it to look at them). This means that there is no adjustment on the motor. To fit a new belt (or even to replace one you have just removed) is simple if gone about in the right fashion. Whilst standing at the front of the machine, with the top and back inspection panel removed, lean over the machine and hook the belt over the motor pulley then feed it onto the right side of the main pulley as far as it will go. Hold it in place with a few cable ties rapped around it and the pulley. Put your left hand inside the drum and rotate it slowly anti clockwise. This will draw the belt onto the main pulley and the cable ties will snap as the drum rotates. Diagram


    (Hotpoint WM) The drum turns as soon as I switch on


  • You probably have a blocked pressure chamber or faulty pressure switch. Go for the chamber first, remove the lid and connected to the timer or side of the cabinet is the pressure switch, depending on which one you have it will be between 2 & 3 inches across, round with wires coming out one side and a thin hose connected to the underside. Remove this hose and if you hear a click it will be the switch resetting……the chamber is blocked. Refit the hose and follow it down to the chamber at the base of the container. You will need to remove the front panel to access the chamber; instructions for dismantling are in our WM manual.



  • (Hotpoint WM) The machine fills up over night, all by itself!


  • This fault applies to other makes as well as Hotpoint. You have a leaking fill valve. The best way to locate which vale it is would be to remove the soap draw and turn the cold water off from the machine supply tap (it's the one with the blue bit on top). Look in the dispenser opening and see if there is still water running down the back of it, it will only be a trickle. If yes then turn the cold tap on and turn the Hot tap off, check again, you may need to dry the back of the dispenser with a cloth first



  • My machine fills with dirty water and when it empties water comes up in the sink.


  • If you have your washing machine outlet hose connected to the waste trap under your sink, then you have a partial blockage in your domestic waste pipe which allows a certain amount of water through when you empty it down the sink but what is prevented from going down the drain finds the easiest route and goes into your washing machine instead, likewise with the machine when it empties only some of the water goes straight down the drain the remainder comes up in your sink. Because the pump is working it prevents the water from going back into the machine when it is spinning.



  • My washing machine is boiling my clothes


  • You will probably find you have a faulty thermistor or one of the wires has broken or come off. The thermistor is usually on the drum front panel and you would need to remove the front of the cabinet to access it. It could be located next to the heater and would have a two wire plug attached, you may find one of these wires have broken or come out. If not you would need a new thermistor.



  • (Hotpoint WMA) Washing not coming out clean


  • On the Hotpoint WMA range of washing machine if the heater fails for any reason the program will advance on to the next stage of the wash cycle as though it had reached its designated temperature. Therefore your washing would be done in cold water and for a shorter time period. The heater is located at the rear of the machine beneath the main pulley; you would need to remove the lower back panel to access it. It could be just a broken wire or it may be the heater itself. To test the heater use either a multi meter or megger and remove the mains plug from the power supply first. The other option of course is your powder, have you changed it or has it been changed by the manufacturer?



  • (Hotpoint WM) Can't open the door after the wash has finished (the button goes in but the door stays locked)


  • The pecker has probably come off the motor or the spring that returns the arm has come off. This happens when the machine goes out of balance and the drum hits against the cabinet. Remove the lid from the machine and attached to the motor is either a white plastic arm assembly with a cable attached or a metal arrangement which is clipped or bolted to the motor by the pulley (the pecker assemblies changed according to the motor you have). Your one has either come off the motor, the little arm has been bent or the return spring has broken. In some cases you can repair them but it would be better to replace the whole thing.



  • Clicking noise as drum turns


  • This could be a number of different things, either you have something in the drum that is catching as it turns, this would normally cause a constant scrapping if it were something such as a bra wire (a very common item to get lodged in a machine) but if it is a clicking type noise I would look at the belt and pulley. If the belt is worn or fraed it would catch as it revolved and therefore make a rhythmic clicking noise, or you could have a broken leg on your drum pulley which would also make a clicking noise as it revolves. (Normally the pulley would only get cracked during a bearing or drum change) so it is unusual but it does happen.



  • (Hotpoint WM) The machine is noisy on spin but fine on wash


  • This could be one of the balance weights have come lose. The usual culprit is the top weight, so remove the lid off the machine (undo the two screws at the rear of the lid and slide it back about an inch or so, it will now lift off) The large concrete block on top of the tub is a counter balance weight and held in place by two bolts, if these bolts come lose it will move about and gradually wear away at the container until it becomes so lose it eventually breaks free and damages the tub, which means replacing the whole container rather than just re-fixing the weight. If the top weight is tight then check the one under the container. This is harder to get to and you would need to tilt the machine back. There are also two bolts but because of there location they are not so easy to tighten.



  • (Hotpoint WM) Drum lopsided and door seal twisted


  • You probably have a snapped suspension rod or it has come out of its housing. Remove the lid off the machine (undo the two screws at the rear of the lid and slide it back about an inch or so, it will now lift off). Look down the inside of the cabinet; you may have to pull the container over to get a good view. Sometimes the suspension rod gets wedged under the container and it looks as though it is OK but if you move the tub from side to side it will feel floppy. Dismantling instructions for this and all other areas of repair are in our WM manual for sale on this site. Or just watch the video



  • Changed the motor brushes and there are lots of sparks coming out of the motor is this normal?


  • It depends on the amount of sparks you are getting. They do spark a bit but if you have a lot of sparking such as a trail running around the armature when it spins then no, it would probably be the armature that is faulty, you may have one or more lose commutators on the armature which would cause it to spark excessively. It is possible to just change the armature but it would be far easier and quicker to replace the whole motor.



  • Half way through the rinse the machine just keeps filling, and never gets any further in the program


  • Have you checked the outlet hose? It could be that the end of the hose is lower than the drum, in which case when it empties the water from the first rinse and starts to refill the drum again, although the pump has stopped the new lot of water is being siphoned out, therefore it never reaches the level to operate the pressure switch and advance the timer onto the next part of the program



  • How do I adjust the pressure switch?


  • The short answer is you can't, or at least it is unwise to try. The pressure switch are pre set in the factory and although it is possible in theory to alter the fill level by adjusting the screws on the rear of the switch, it will in most cases cause extra problems and normally incur the cost of buying a new switch. If you find the water level in your machine is either too much or too little it is usually the pressure chamber or associated pipe work that is at fault, probably due to a blockage which would need cleaning out, Switches do go wrong but they just stop working or become intermittent and no amount of tinkering with the fill levels will correct them. So if you think your switch is at fault then change it.


    What is the Date Code and why would | need it?


  • For Date Code/Serial Number locations on most appliances click. Here The first 2 digits of the serial number are the Date code, so by using the chart below you can tell exactly when your machine came off the production line. (As opposed to when the store sold it.) They may of had it in stock for 9 months. Therefore the example serial number of 23290056 shows the machine came of the production line in November 2003.As you can see every eighth year the numbers recycle which means your appliance could have been made in either of the years listed, however there were only a few models made that cover the eight year time span so you are reasonably safe to assume the date code on your appliance will fall within the boundaries listed.

    The main reason for needing either the date code or serial number of a machine is when it comes to buying spares. Obviously you will need the model number so the dealer will now what parts you need but on some appliances the parts differ from one year to another, therefore just by knowing what model you have will not necessarily get you the correct part for your machine (such as a door lock) for instance. They may have used 3 different types of door locks over the life of that particular model and although generally speaking there would be some type of conversion kit or instructions in the box this was not always the case. So it is handy to know just when your machine came off the production line  

     

    Other date code listings

     

    JAN

    FEB

    MAR

    APR

    MAY

    JUN

    JUL

    AUG

    SEP

    OCT

    NOV

    DEC

    2000

    73

    74

    75

    76

    77

    78

    79

    80

    81

    82

    83

    84

    2001

    85

    86

    87

    88

    89

    90

    91

    92

    93

    94

    95

    96

    2002

    01

    02

    03

    04

    05

    06

    07

    08

    09

    10

    11

    12

    2003

    13

    14

    15

    16

    17

    18

    19

    20

    21

    22

    23

    24

    2004

    25

    26

    27

    28

    29

    30

    31

    32

    33

    34

    35

    36

    2005

    37

    38

    39

    40

    41

    42

    43

    44

    45

    46

    47

    48

    2006

    49

    50

    51

    52

    53

    54

    55

    56

    57

    58

    59

    60

    2007

    61

    62

    63

    64

    65

    66

    67

    68

    69

    70

    71

    72

    2008

    73

    74

    75

    76

    77

    78

    79

    80

    81

    82

    83

    84




    How do I change the heater on my washing machine


  • The heater is located either at the front of the container just under the door opening or it is at the rear of the container beneath the pulley. As the machine will need to be pulled out to gain access to the heater which ever location it is in, the easiest option to locate it is look to the rear of the machine first, because there is normally only a small panel at the base of the cabinet to remove for you to view the back of the container. The heater looks like a small oblong panel about 3 inches long with 3 wires attached; there may also be a small square plug in it with 2 wires. (This would be the thermistor) Not all heaters have an integral thermistor. Once you have located where it is you can set about removing it. If it is in the front of the machine you will need to remove the front panel and all the bits holding it on such as soap drawer, fascia panel, door seal and possibly kick strip. Don't forget to remove the interlock or you could inadvertently pull the wires and damage it as you take the panel off. Some heaters have a water protector over them (A large plastic cap) which may be held in place by a central plastic nut. Once this is removed and you have access to the heater, disconnect all the wires. In the centre of the heater there is a nut you need to loosen, about three quarters of the way up the thread. Tap the nut back into the heater so it sits flush on the heater body again. Now prize the heater out (You may need to use a flat bladed screw driver between it and the front plate / back plate or just by wiggling the heater from side to side usually works). If you are replacing the heater with a new one then it should just slot in place, but if you are refitting the old heater you will need to lubricate the edge of the rubber seal or you will never get it to refit properly (washing up liquid is good for this purpose).


    How do I adjust the out of balance regulator on my washing machine?


  • On the earlier Hotpoint washing machines a switch was fitted to one of the suspension legs, which in turn was connected to a long spring. When an uneven load in the machine produced an out of balance situation during spin it would cause the spring to activate the switch and turn the machine off. This type of out of balance control was not very effective and was soon deleted from the machines.

    The type of out of balance control used nowadays is handled by the tacho generator on the rear of the motor which relays information to the module. As the motor rotates it draws currant, and this currant usage is monitored by the module. If a load is out of balance the motor will require more energy to turn and lift the drum to the top of the cycle than it will to lower it. In this way the machine can detect if the load is evenly distributed or not. This distribution technique only comes into action when the machine is set to do more than a certain amount of RPM's (such as during a spin cycle rather than a wash cycle). The module controls this function also.
    Therefore the only action you need to worry about regarding out of balance, is to ensure your wash load is of a reasonable content and similar type of material. Remember that a washing machine will go out of balance if it is UNDER loaded rather than overloaded. Overloading will affect the wash and knock the bearings out.




    How do I unblock the pressure chamber on my washing machine?


  • Work safely; remove the mains plug from the wall socket before commencing.
    First of all locate the pressure chamber, you may need to remove the front of the cabinet to gain access to it or it could be under the machine at the rear. If you need to remove the front panel the following information may assist you (Not all machines are the same)

    Open the door and unhook the door seal from around the front panel.
    In most cases the removal of the front panel requires that the soap draw be taken out to gain access to the screws behind it, these screws hold the control panel on, with this removed you can undo the screws at the bottom of the front panel before removing the ones on top. The panel can now be removed from the cabinet, (some panels are held in place by hooks on the side of the cabinet and will need lifting to free them). Either remove the door lock or take the wires off (make a note which terminals they came off for when you have to replace them).

    Tilt the machine away from where the chamber is, e.g. (If it is on the front then tilt the machine backwards) and prop it up by putting a tin of peas or something under it so it stays tilted. Now any water left in the drum will not come out all over you when the chamber is removed. (If there is an excess of water in the drum remove it by hand using a mug or sponge). Place a dish or bowl under the chamber to catch any water that does come out.

    Depending on which chamber you have the fixings vary, some are held in place by screws while others use hose clips to hold them on. They also differ in there appearance in that some are a single entity on their own while others are part of a sump or hose setup where the entire unit must be removed to clean out the chamber.
    Remove the fixings including the small bore air hose and take the chamber assembly off of the machine, if there are any O rings or seals clean them and place them on one side.
    It may be necessary to use a screw driver to dig out the contents of the chamber before flushing it out with running water. When it is clean replace it, remember to refit any O rings or seal that came off when it was removed.

    Note:
    Do not be tempted to just blow down the air hose to relieve the blockage, because although this may seem to work initially it has not cleared the fault and will only last for a few washes before blocking up again.




    Why is there black build up in the detergent drawer?


  • The continual use of low temperature washing programs can result in the build up of bacteria in this area. Remove the detergent drawer and thoroughly clean both it and the compartment with a long handled brush. Once clean treat with a sterilizing solution such as Milton. When you have finished using the appliance leave the door and drawer open slightly to allow fresh air to flow through.



  • Why does my washing feel harsh?


  • Under dosing of detergent will allow natural mineral salts from the water supply to deposit back into fibers during rinsing. Make sure you use the correct dosage of detergent. To restore items to their original condition you could give them a short soak in a solution of Calgon, this should release any mineral build up in the fibers. Regular washing with the recommended dosage of detergent will help to preserve the articles in the future. If a fabric conditioner is being used and the wash load still feels harsh or hard, then the conditioner could be dispensing prematurely. This occurs if the fabric conditioner compartment is overfilled.



  • My fabric conditioner empties too soon


  • If you put more conditioner in the compartment than indicated then it will siphon out instantly, also if the draw is closed sharply this could cause the conditioner to empty prematurely.



  • (Hotpoint WMA) The water is not pumping out


  • Lower your outlet hose into a bucket and if water flows out you probably have a faulty pump or wiring connections, but if no water flows then you have a blockage, in which case you would need to empty the tub by hand so tilt the machine backwards, put something under it to hold it in that position and open the door, bail it out with a mug or sponge and when it is as empty as you can get it stand the machine upright again. Now tilt it forward and prop it up, remove the lower inspection panel and slide a shallow bowl or deep dish under the sump to catch any water that may be left in the drum when you remove it. Undo the retaining clamp, remove the sump assembly and the filter is inside. If the filter is clear you may have a blockage in the outlet hose. Remember to unplug the machine from the power supply before attempting any maintenance/repair work on it.



  • (Hotpoint WMA) Door lock light flashing (just replaced door lock and now the light is flashing)


  • The light flashing means the door is not closed, or the machine thinks it is not closed. Some of these new door locks don't catch straight away when the door is closed and need an extra push, or it could be a wiring connection fault, do a continuity test on the wires from the switch to the module just to be sure the wiring is sound and there are no breaks in the wire.



  • (Hotpoint WM) The machine starts to fill then stops


  • This could be one of the fill valves are open circuit. Try selecting a rinse program and starting the machine, if it stops before it fills then it most probably is the cold valve that needs changing. Until you get the new valve you can swap the coil over from the fabric conditioner valve (that's both coils on the double valve) just disconnect the wires, remove the coils and swap them over then refit the wires on the new coils. This is not a repair because your fabric conditioner will not work now but you can at least get your washing done until you get a new double solenoid.



  • Not all the fabric conditioner is going


  • In a lot of cases you will find a small amount of water left behind in the fabric conditioner compartment when the machine has finished, this is not unusual, however some of the concentrated conditioners may need diluting first. Make sure the siphon tube is clear and free from any form of obstruction, also clean the inside top of the soap dispenser compartment of any black residue that may be there (this residue covers and blocks the water holes in the compartment)



  • I have a terrible smell coming from my washing machine


  • The Constant use of low temperature washes and some of the liquid color safe detergents (without any bleaching agent in) combined with over loading of the machine, allow for a build up of un-dissolved detergent which propagates the growth of bacteria. This is what causes the smell in both the drum and on clean washing Put the machine on a service wash, which is a 90 degree wash with nothing in the drum, and allow it to complete the wash. Repeat this if the water is still soapy after completion. To keep the drum odor free do a service wash every month or so.



  • (Hotpoint WMA) The Motor tried to spin twice then just stopped


  • This could be a Tacho fault. Check the wiring plug on the motor and associated leads, you probably have a wire off or broken, you may also like to check the module just in case it blew one of the tracks on the board. If you tilt the machine back you can see the motor plug from under the machine, and if there are any loose wires, but this is just as a quick check and it is not recommended to try a repair like this, you would need to remove the front of the cabinet. Although the motor is at the rear of the machine the motor plug and associated wiring are facing forward, so it may be easier to work on from the front of the machine. Full dismantling instructions are available in one of our WMA repair manuals



  • (Hotpoint WMA) The fabric conditioner is not going in


  • With this range of machines both cold solenoid valves have to operate at the same time to flush the conditioner into the tub. Also you can get a build up of soap and slim inside the soap dispenser housing which needs to be cleaned out with a small scrubbing brush (if you have one). This covering blocks the water inlet holes and prevents the distribution of conditioner.





  • How do I get rid of excess foam in dishwasher


  • It could be that you have spilt rinse aid into the tub or you have used the wrong detergent. The best way to clear the foam is to wash your hands in it with a bar of soap (it sounds weird but it works) The soap kills the bubbles. Then put it on rinse to empty it out.
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    The white bits in dishwasher have turned pink


  • This is most likely caused by additives in food or relishes such as Tomato sauce, it is unlikely that you will be able to remove them once they have set, but you could try 'citric acid' obtainable from a chemist. Use it in place of a detergent and let the machine do a hot wash with nothing in it


    The gauze filter in my dishwasher has a hole in it, can I still use it?


  • It is not advisable to use a dishwasher without a filter, because it is there to prevent particles of food ect from getting lodged in the circulation motor or discharge pumps, without these filters it would only take a short time before the appliance would come to a halt.


    The soap dispenser is not working!


  • It could just be that it is being held closed by something in the dishwasher, i.e. poorly stacked dishes or pans, or even a dishwasher freshener wrongly placed could prevent it from opening, The other alternative is a defective dispenser. On some models such as the Hotpoint FDW-SDW-DWF ranges there is a thermistor on the inside door lining which could affect the operation of the soap dispenser should it come away from the panel but these would also produce an error code 


    My tumble drier is cold


  • Some tumble driers have a reset button on the back (you would need to check your hand book) these are for if the heater gets too hot i.e. the filters are not cleaned out.
    Failing this it could be the thermostats or the heater itself. The heaters on the newer machines are normally at the rear of the appliance under a casing of some description and the thermostats are located on or close to the heater mounting. Some of them have coloured dots on, these are not for decoration but to identify the different temperature settings for machines within the particular model range, in most cases they will come as a pair of thermostats together; (one is a one shot cut out and the other is the thermostat) If either one needs replacing then replace the pair.
    During production of any particular model, components are sometimes changed so it would be useful when ordering new parts/thermostats to have on hand not only the model number but also the year of manufacture or date code, just in case.

    There are also thermostats or thermistors in or around the vent outlet on a large portion of tumble driers, so if the washing is drying but taking too long it could be one of these that needs replacing, or alternately it may be the washing machine not spinning properly or a faulty pump leaving the washing much wetter than usual.




    Do I need to check the water container every time I use my Condenser Drier


  • It is advisable to empty the container every time you use your Condenser Drier, because when they become full they are heavy and more difficult to remove without spillage, although normally a light will come on to tell you it needs emptying.


    How often do I need to clean my Tumble Drier filter?


  • Every time you use the drier you should clean the filter or you could end up with fluff all over your clothing, it also allows the thermostats to work at there optimum efficiency and save you money on your electric bill.


    My tumble dryer still goes round after the timer has stopped


  • Most tumble dryers have a built in crease guard feature which revolves the tub from time to time when the drying cycle has finished, unless the machine is turned off or the door opened. The idea behind this action is that if you put the dryer on in the morning and go out, instead of the clothes being left creased up all day, by revolving the drum every so often they will remain fresh and crease free for when you take them out.


    Where are the thermistors on the CTD80/85/40 VTD60/65A


  • There are two thermistors, the rear one controls the temperature into the back of the dryer and is located in-between the two thermostats on the heater assembly just above the heater, and the other thermistor is located at the top of the front air duct moulding. Both thermistors are used for temperature control by the machines electronics.

    Be sure to replace the new thermistor with the same type as the existing one because there were more than one type used and they are not interchangeable.




    What is the difference between a one shot thermostat and a cycling thermostat ?


  • The one shot thermostat is a safety devise and works just like a fuse in that when it blows it cannot be reset. If the cycling thermostat fails and the heater gets too hot then the one shot thermostat operates which cuts power to the heater.

    The cycling thermostat switches power to the heater off when it reaches a preset temperature and back on when the temperature falls.
    These cycling thermostats were not fitted to some Hotpoint machines between 2005-2006.
    If you have both stats fitted to your machine and one needs replacing then replace both because they usually come as a pair.




    How do I remove the motor on a TDC30P/N/S/YS Condenser Tumble Dryer ?


  • To the best of our knowledge the following information is correct and sufficient for the purpose intended. However we accept no responsibility for any omissions, losses, damage, or injury however caused either directly or indirectly by using the information gained from these instructions.

    The motor on the Hotpoint TDC30 is held in place by two screws securing the mounting to the under side of the cabinet. However it is also linked to other components via the impellor and shaft.

    First remove the top cover and right hand side panel then tilt the machine backwards (or lay it on its back). Undo the two motor bracket retaining screws and stand machine upright again. Rotate the drum so that an indented section is directly over the top air duct moulding and unclip both sections, swing the upper section of the moulding out of the way out side the cabinet. You can now remove the belt from the jockey pulleys. Take off the heater cover and remove the hose clip and impeller from the motor shaft. Undo the two screws inside the rear ducting and remove all wiring connections. By rotating the motor and bracket anti-clockwise it can now be lifted from the base of the cabinet. Now ease the assembly forward so the impellor shaft clears the rear ducting. The belt can now be removed from the shaft, then when the motor is out the hose clip and front rotor can be removed.
    Undo the two screws holding the motor to the frame and separate.




    How do I change the belt on my Tumble Drier?


  • Each model tumble drier has its own particular way of fitting the belt. Unlike washing machines the belt on a tumble drier fits around the drum and the motor shaft as opposed to a pulley, therefore to fit the belt you have to remove one end of the drum from the cabinet. On some machines it is easier to take the front panel off and loop the belt over the drum through the front of the cabinet, while other models it is easier to undo the rear bearing assembly and by levering the back panel out a fraction it is possible to pass the belt between it and the bearing shaft allowing you to loop it onto the drum that way. Which ever method is used the drum should be refitted properly before any attempt is made to fit the belt over the motor shaft.

    Gaining access to the motor is yet another varying option because on the older models you have to go in through the rear of the cabinet while the newer models prefer the side entrance which involves removing a side panel.

    Fitting the belt over the motor shaft is the complicated part of the job and really differs from one model to another so there is no easy method or instruction that can be given.
    You will probably see a ring around drum where the old belt fitted. Place the new belt on the same track as the old one and put a few pieces of electrical tape over the belt and onto the drum, (so it will hold the belt in place while you are concentrating on connecting it over the motor shaft). Where there are jockey pulleys fitted, it is in some cases possible to just hook the belt onto the shaft and fit the pulleys after, because they are there to put tension on the belt.
    If you have a drier that uses a stretchy belt then you will need something to use as a lever to force the new belt onto the motor shaft. Hotpoint have produced a lever for there engineers because the belts on some of there newer models were causing problems to fit. This lever consists of a long bar with two pins attached to a metal plate about 12 inches from the tip. The bar hooks into the base of the cabinet and the belt loops over the pins. By levering down on the bar it is easy to fit the belt over the motor shaft but without this tool it could be quite a job.View Tool

    Some of the newer condenser driers use the motor itself to assist with the belt fitting; in this case the motor is unbolted and rotated in its mounting allowing the shaft to get closer to the drum.(If you have one of these mark the motor casing and housing before removing any bolts so you know where the motor should be when you refit it). When the belt is fitted the motor is rotated back and re-bolted in place. However there are many more parts that need removing on a condenser drier just to gain access to the motor shaft, because the fan impellor is usually attached to it and that is in a covered housing which needs removing first.

    When the belt is finally fitted make sure the tape holding it in place on the drum is removed and that it is still in the right place. Slowly revolve the drum by hand to insure the positioning of the belt remains the same, because if it is out of alignment it will come off the motor shaft and you will have to start all over again.




    No water going into water tank, clothes not drying due to no heat


  • The water fill relies on a small pump at the lower rear of the machine pumping the water thru a small tube to the tank, if the pump stops or gets blocked [due to the user not cleaning the front door filter on a regular basis] the water builds up in the base and trips the float switch to go open circuit causing no heat, cure is to either free or replace pump


    How to change over my Fridge door


  • Before you start first remove all the contents of the fridge door, Bottles, lard, eggs ect and remove any liquid items in the fridge that may spill, because you will need to tilt the unit backward slightly so you can get at the lower hinge bracket under the base. Tilt refrigeration unit backward and if possible rest it against a wall, if this is not possible place something under it so it does not fall on you, but be careful not to tilt it too far or it will fall the other way. Remove the fixing screws / bolts from the underside of the lower hinge bracket; you may have to unscrew the foot first to allow the bracket to be removed. If this is the case then remove both feet because you will need the other foot off to fit the hinge bracket on the opposite side. Be aware that there may be nylon washers on the shaft of the bracket, don't lose these they are packing washers used for adjusting the door alignment and will need to be replaced. Remove the door and unscrew the bolts holding the top hinge bracket in place. In most cases you can just refit the hinge brackets to the opposite side of the fridge, starting with the top hinge first. On the door there are two pivot bushes that just press into the frame; one top and one bottom. Hook these out with a knife or fine screwdriver and remove the little plug that should be it the opposite corners. Replace the plugs with the bushes and visa versa. Slot the door onto the upper hinge pivot pin and fit the other hinge into the door; having first fitted any nylon washers that were present when it was removed. Locate the lower hinge and tighten. Replace feet and that is it done.Watch video This video is of a Fridge Freezer but it will give you an idea of what to do


    There is water under my Freezer


  • If you have checked all the normal sources of water around that area and come up empty then it could be expensive. Check and see if there is any ice under the freezer, if there is then buy a new one, because the insulation has gone and it is not repairable.


    Water in base of fridge.


  • The main cause for this is the hole inside at the rear of the fridge is blocked. This hole is at the bottom of the gully and lets the water from the evaporator run through to the dissipater at the back when the unit goes into defrost. To clean it out use a piece of wire (an old coat hanger will do fine), if the hole goes to the rear of the appliance then it will only go in about 5 to 8 mm. What is causing the blockage is slime, so when you hit a hard surface it is the down pipe. Drag the wire out, you may need to do this several times, empty a small amount of water into the gully and see if it clears.
    Do not put too much water in the gully to test it because the dissipater tray can only hold so much before it overflows.


    My compressor is very hot is this right?


  • During its normal operation the compressor gets quite hot when it is running, but if it gets too hot to touch it could be a system fault which is a job for a professional. In fact any job involving the compressor is best left to the professional as they have the correct equipment to break into and re-gas the system.


    Fridge light on but not cold (Free standing Fridge)


  • If the light is on but the compressor is silent it would indicate that the thermostat was faulty and needed replacing. They are usually found within the fridge compartment and not too expensive to buy.


    How to change over my Fridge Freezer doors


  • Before you start first remove all the contents of the fridge door, Bottles, lard, eggs ect and remove any liquid items in the fridge that may spill, because you will need to tilt the unit backward slightly so you can get at the lower hinge bracket under the base. Tilt Fridge Freezer unit backward and if possible rest it against a wall, if this is not possible place something under it so it does not fall on you, but be careful not to tilt it too far or it will fall the other way. Remove the fixing screws / bolts from the underside of the lower hinge bracket; you may have to unscrew the foot first to allow the bracket to be removed. If this is the case then remove both feet because you will need the other foot off to fit the hinge bracket on the opposite side. Be aware that there may be nylon washers on the shaft of the bracket, don't lose these they are packing washers used for adjusting the door alignment and will need to be replaced. The magnetic door seal should have held the freezer door in place whilst you removed the bracket. Now pull the door free and lower it from the shaft in the centre bracket. Remove the screws / bolts holding centre bracket in place and remove, along with the fridge door. Once again be mindful of the little nylon washers. Undo the upper hinge bracket and refit on opposite side of cabinet. Remove the blanking plugs and bushes at either end of the doors and swap them over. Fit the top hinge first then upper door and centre hinge, remembering to replace any washers that had been fitted previously. Now fit lower door and bottom hinge (including washers). Refit feet if they were removed and job done.Watch video


    Relocating Fridge/Freezer


  • If you are relocating a fridge a freezer or a combination fridge freezer to another premises, it is always best if it can be kept upright during the move where possible, but if it is necessary to lay it down then do so on its side rather than on its back or front. When the unit has been relocated in its new position it is best to leave it for about 2 hours before switching it on. This will allow the refrigerant inside to settle. If you have switched the unit on and the compressor either cuts out straight away or does not start it could be the system has not equalized so by switching it off for a short time then back on again you could find it will work.


    Compressor silent freezer not cold
    (Free standing Freezer not Frost Free)


  • If the freezer is not cold and the compressor is not running there is a good chance it is the thermostat that is faulty, this is located inside the freezer at the rear.


    Adjusting Fridge/Freezer door


  • Adjusting the doors on a fridge or freezer is normally just a matter of inserting a few nylon washers on the hinge pin; unfortunately the hinge needs to be removed to allow you to do this. Door removal


    What is the difference between a thermal link and a thermal cut out?


  • The thermal link is effectively a piece of (white metal) solder ect, between two copper pins, which bridge the gap between the input stat and the power supply. When the unit reaches an over heat situation, (such as if the thermostat stays on or the vent outlet is blocked), the white metal of the link melts and breaks the connection, effectively turning off the heater. These thermal links are of varying melting points dependent on the unit they are in, this is highlighted by the different colours on the edges; some melt at low temperatures while others need more heat to disintegrate. Under no circumstances should copper wire or fuse wire be used to replace these links. The thermal cut out is a thermostat that can be re-set after it has been activated. Like the link it operates at temperatures above the permitted parameters of the heater, but unlike the link it can be re-set rather than replaced


    My heater is cold:


  • This could be caused by any of the following reasons: The safety cut-out has operated, (or if you have one the thermal link has melted), the input thermostat is faulty, the heater is switched off at the spur unit, there is a bad wiring connection or you have a supply failure such as a blown fuse. On singe element heaters it is also possible that the element has blown but if you have a larger heater it is highly unlikely that more than one element would blow at one time. Before you test or check anything on the heater make sure it is switched off from the main supply, having first made sure that it was originally turned on and the fault wasn't just that it had been turned off: (Read that last section again, but slowly, and it will make sense!). Check the fuse first as it is the easiest, and then check for loose or broken wires, (you would need to remove the top and front of the unit to access any internal wiring connections) if they all seem OK locate the cut-out reset lever which should be on the right hand side connected to the thermostat (under a cover) and press it down; at this point you should hear a click, if not the final option is the thermostat.


    Poor Heat output


  • The main reasons for this would be: Incorrect setting of the input/output control, a faulty heating element, the damper valve is not operating correctly or the input thermostat is faulty. The input control knob may be broken and although you have the unit set at the temperature you want it may really be set much lower (the knob may have revolved around the control shaft rather than turning it) or the damper control may have stuck restricting the hot air flow, it could also be the input stat is faulty or finally it could be the heater element is not working. Because most heaters have more than one element it is not always easy to tell if they are the cause of the heat reduction, but if you touch the outside of the cabinet when the unit is fully charged you should be able to feel if one side is much cooler than the other. Failing this you would need to do a continuity test with a meter.


    Why did the safety cut-out operate?


  • You may have had clothing draped over heater or restricted the air flow around it, or it could just be that the input thermostat is faulty.


    No heat from the storage heaters fan booster


  • Some storage heaters have a booster fan and this fan heater element has a safety cut-out fitted, which will operate to turn off the heater element when the temperature rises above the operating level of the thermostat e.g. if the air flow is restricted (the lower grill is covered). If the cut-out operates the supply to the element is stopped, but the fan will continue to operate.


    How do I reset the cut-out on my storage heater?


  • Some Creda storage heaters have a thermostat with an integral safety cut-out. To gain access to the stat you must first remove the top cover of the heater. They are usually located at the right hand end of the inner top panel. To reset the cut-out you must lift the front of the thermostat cover, then press the reset lever and you will hear a click as the cut-out resets.


    My storage heater gets cold too quick


  • It could be the output stat is set too high and letting too much of the heat escape at one time, try turning the output setting down. Or it could be the input stat is faulty and cutting out before the blocks are fully charged.
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